Is your springer a dampened springer or does it just have a bunch of springs and that is it? mine has no shock and one thing I have noticed is that any brake more powerful than the mini drum tends to cause the front wheel to skip along the pavement under braking on uneven surfaces. Some springer legs (espically on the narrow ones) are oval or flat so I don't know where you would get a clamp to fit - it is probably better to have a machinist make you one so you get a perfect fit. I have seen clamp mounts in the past and all I can say about those is I don't see why they wouldn't work but you better make sure your hardware is up to snuff. I have a jammer narrow springer on the cb550 and it has a threaded bung on the inside leg. You can take it even further by adding new controls (S-K offers Brembo and ASV options), but to simply bring your FXR/Dyna up to that 70-percent range as it should be, the basics are all it takes.Depends on whose springer it is, but generally there are no conversion kits. I further added to the parts pile with a pair of Galfer USA Wave floating rotors (with a matched fixed Wave rear), had an all-new brake line set built by Mesa Hose, and threw on a Biltwell bar and riser combo.
#DUAL DISC GIRDER FRONT END UPGRADE#
So here’s how the basic dual-disc upgrade pans out parts wise: dual-disc 39mm (or just a right side leg), adapter brackets, calipers (that use 10mm x 1.25 banjo bolts, which work with stock H-D brake lines), 11.5-inch rotors, and an 11/16 bore master cylinder. Being a “floating” caliper, they perform much more efficiently than its fixed predecessor, not to mention don’t have the same inherent squealing characteristics. While many dual-disc aftermarket setups are designed for the ’99–later 39mm lowers, S-K offers a machined billet bracket for the earlier style/offset mounting, which accept the readily available two-piston Tokico calipers that came OE on a variety of Suzuki and Kawasaki 650s (plentiful and cheap on eBay). My old rear braking “skills” re-emerged for a spell-until I crossed paths with Still Kicking Moto’s (a.k.a. Matter of fact, whenever I could squeeze enough lever to get it to work, it locked up. Its front brake was nothing like the Road King’s duals. That all pretty much changed when my ’90 FXR entered my life not too long ago. It also gave me a whole new relationship with-and subsequent reliability on-using the front brakes the majority of the time. Fortunately, Jeff Holt had just set me up with a new set of floating rotors and sintered pads, so the impromptu brake technique lesson went better than it could have. Changing the stock rubber lines to braided brake lines improves the front brake a lot (feel and power) and is an economical 'upgrade'. Changing the front end to a wider GL front end opens up the possibilities a lot. It was a Sunday, there was tons of traffic, and I just wanted to get home-so I purposely kept my right foot on the passenger peg (away from the brake pedal) and used the front brakes the rest of the way. A very similar dual disc set up on a GL front end. It wasn’t until a few years back when the rear master on my Road King failed during a long ride home from Northern California. (Even to this day, I still tend to skid-maneuver my rear wheel through the occasional tight spot, but as you’ll read, I’ve acquired a new respect for performance front brakes.) That, or riders like myself, who for whatever hapless reasons, came to rely solely on rear brakes (because that’s all most of my first bikes had), and the older H-D front discs seemed better suited for inclined traffic stops anyway, not hard panic braking, let alone constant use. Well, maybe “they” must not have tested many early single-disc FXRs and Dynas. They say approximately 70 percent of a motorcycle’s stopping power comes from the front brake system.
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